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This
section is dedicated to the selection and aquisition of make-up
and beauty products for CDs. If you're looking for application
tips, check out my articles
Let's face it, the
cosmetics aisles are so big and confusing that if you don't know
what you're doing, you'll never find what you need. And most CDs
don't like to spend more time browsing the make-up counters than
they have to.
FOUNDATION
This
skin colored substance comes in liquid, powders and concealer
sticks used to make the skin appear smooth and to cover imperfections.
TYPES
and TECHNIQUES
Stick foundation -Glide on
the foundation straight from the stick; blend with fingertips
or a dry, clean makeup sponge.
Liquid foundation - Shake
bottle well. Dot on, then blend with your fingertips; oils from
your fingertips will help spread the foundation evenly.
Powder foundation - Apply
with a dry sponge; wet sponges can streak.
Concealers come in sticks,
pots, cremes, and pencils. Any type will do. It's okay to use
your fingertips to apply. Just make sure you dab or pat it on
-- never wipe or rub. For the most covert application, use a concealer
brush. It helps you to be subtle and precise, especially when
you're working on small areas like blemishes. Even when you're
blemish-free, there are places where concealer works miracles:
under the eyes to cover dark circles, on the outer corners of
the eyes (where it's often reddish or dark), around the nostrils,
and in the dark bluish spots where each eye meets the bridge of
the nose. A dot on either side keeps the eyes looking brighter.
Basically, concealer is a
slightly heavier version of foundation. If you're using concealer
with foundation, go with a color that's one shade lighter than
the foundation. These two products work in tandem to bring your
face to one tone.
Apply concealer first, to
cover dark spots or blemishes, then go over the concealed areas
with foundation. If the spots are still dark, you can go back
and apply more concealer on top of the foundation.
If you're using just concealer
without foundation over it, make sure the concealer matches your
skin tone. This can be tricky, since it's offered in far fewer
shades than foundation. If the color's too light, you'll actually
draw more attention to the problem you're covering. But if you
get a great match, you can get by with spot concealer and nothing
else on the face -- even with blemishes.
Sometimes foundation alone
can take the place of concealer; although it's a lighter formula,
you can use it in the same areas and it often does the trick.
It's really your choice: foundation alone, concealer alone, or
a combination of the two.
The objective of foundation
is to smooth and blend skin tone and color differences to a natural
healthy look of natural skin. If it looks like a mask, or feels
that way, then too much has been applied. If you see no difference,
you have applied too little.
Application for taking photos
differs from preparing for a normal day out. Using a thicker application
can reduce the appearance of stubble and blemishes without looking
unnatural in a photograph or movie. Applying more than one coat
or using concealer on the entire face will give you this thicker
coverage.
All foundation will blend
more easily if the skin is hydrated, so use a face friendly lotion
before applying if your skin is dry. It also helps to apply a
thin base coat immediately after showering. Allow the base coat
to dry before applying the rest of your makeup.
* Apply foundation in center
of forehead; blend across, then down.
* For cheeks, blend in toward nose, then out toward hairline.
* Dot foundation on tip of nose; blend with upward, then outward
strokes.
* On your chin, blend foundation across, then up.
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COLOR
Color can be tricky. Most
people tend to mistakenly buy foundation that is a shade too light
for them. It will make you look washed out, won’t match
your neck and chest, and will not cover as well. Matching color
is important for a natural and smooth look. Notice what tones
show in your skin – red/yellow/pink/brown/even blue. The
best place to test match your skin tone is on the chin and lower
jaw area. Expect that the foundation chosen in mid-summer may
be too dark in mid-winter. Without actually testing colors in
the store, the best thing to do is look at the following color
swatches, find a color that you think matches your skin tone,
and buy a foundation that is a shade darker. Be aware that the
names for the colors will differ between brands, but they are
all generally the same.
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EYES
EYE
SHADOW
The skin on eyelids is naturally
darker than the skin on the rest of your face. Apply a layer of
bone-colored shadow over lids to even their tone.
To identify colors that work
for you, use your hair as a guide. Blondes look good in creams
and taupes, while mochas and chocolate browns flatter brunettes.
If you are auburn or redhead, go with coppers, peaches, and reddish
browns or cool tones like pink and lavenders. Gray hair is gorgeous
with grays, soft purples, and blues.
If your eyes are blue, try
brown and rose. Warm shades contrast the coolness of blue eyes,
making them stand out. Apply from lashlines to creases and top
with black mascara.
If your eyes are brown, try
green and gold. Both shades will pick up the colored flecks found
in brown eyes. Choose a slightly shimmery texture, and apply from
lashlines to browbones, blending well.
If your eyes are green, try
lavender and mocha. Purple shades contrast your color, making
eyes look dramatic; warmer shades of mocha complement green, giving
a natural effect. Wear mocha for day, lavender for night, and
top both with brown mascara.
If your eyes are hazel, try
deep green and pale yellow. Depending on your mood, choose a shade
that matches different flecks in your eyes. For a twist, apply
shadow, then line eyes with the same color using a liner brush
dipped in water.
Anyone-Can-Wear-'Em Shades:
charcoal, chocolate, black. (Tip: Since they can look heavy on
the lid, use these colors as liners to complement any shadow hue.)
For complete simplicity,
dust the entire eyelid with a wash of one color. Cream eye shadows
are great for this look -- light to medium tones work best. Add
mascara and brown pencil as needed. Begin with the lightest color
first. Dust a light tone over the entire eyelid with a medium
eye shadow brush using the following technique: hold your brush
very lightly and go from the lashline to slightly beyond the crease
(where the eyelid meets the browbone). Glide up to the browbone
and the brush will naturally lift off your face -- just where
you want to color to end.
Then dust a medium shade
in the creaseline (something with a bit more depth than what went
on the eyelid), using a small to medium shadow brush. Extend slightly
beyond the crease, up toward the browbone. This adds depth to
the eyes. And by going slightly beyond the crease, you can create
a contour that's visible even when your eyes are wide open.
You can stop here. But if
you want more drama, place a medium to deep tone on the upper
lashline, using an angled eye shadow or eyeliner brush. And keep
this line soft and smudged. Still more drama? Brush more of this
color under the lower lashline -- apply with the smudge brush
in mini downward strokes (don't brush across -- that creates too
strong a line).
For definition of eye shape,
dust a light to medium tone over the entire eyelid at the lashline,
apply a darker tone with an eyeliner brush to create a smudged,
dramatic line.
When eye color is complete
(you shouldn't be able to see where any of the colors begin or
end) use a large eye shadow brush and dust the entire eye area
with loose powder to help set and blend. Add mascara and brow
pencil, as needed.
Deep Set - Dust entire eyelid
with a light, pale, tone to bring the eyes forward. You can intensify
color along the upper lashline with a medium tone, but it's best
not to darken the crease.
Narrow Set - Keep the application
on the outer edges of the eyes, extending slightly beyond the
outer corners.
Wide Set - Begin the application
at the inner corners of the eyes. Try to avoid going past the
outer corners.
Protruding - Choose tones
with warmth and depth to make the eyes recede. Dust a medium tone
over the entire eyelid. You can also add a deeper tone in the
crease or at the lashlines.
Small - Use shimmery tones
to bring light to the eyes. Avoid black at all costs -- it confines
the eyes and looks too severe.
Large - You can experiment
with deep, warm tones. Keep mascara soft.
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EYE
LINER
To apply pencil liner precisely,
gently pull the outer corner of your eye so your lashes make a
straight line. Angle the tip of the pencil toward your lashes
and lightly draw from inner to outer corner.
For deep-set eyes: Keep the
line very thin; use subtle lines under the eyes and
smudge.
For small eyes: Use a pale
highlighter pencil at the inner and outer corners.
For droopy eyes: Widen the
lines toward the outer eye and blend slightly upward; skip lining
the lower lid.
For big or heavy lids: Keep
the line more intense; at the outer corners, opt for a broader
line.
For round eyes: Define the
outer corners to elongate.
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LIPS
When using a lip pencil for
shape and definition, start at the middle of the top lip. If you
want to create a slightly fuller effect, this is the only place
to do it. Otherwise, you should always follow your own lip line
for the most natural effect.
Fat pencils have a soft formula
that makes them the perfect choice for fast full-lip coverage.
Penciling in the entire lip area with a rosy-brown shade is a
good strategy for CDs with thin or pale lips because it lets you
define the mouth without wearing a lot of color.
Used as an under-layer for
lipstick, a lip pencil not only acts as a base to hold color longer,
it also can transform your lipstick shade, making it browner,
deeper or plummier, depending on the color of the pencil.
If you are not fortunate
to have full lips, wear the lightest, frostiest lipsticks you
can find. They will cause your lips to look fuller.
Red-Pink: makes the color
seem warmer, but harder and deeper as well. Can also bring out
all the red tones in your skin as well so be careful!
Yellow – orange makes
the color warmer, and softer. Looks great on warm skin tones,
but if you're really pale, can bring out the green/blue undertones
in your skin. To be on the safe side, go towards the yellow side,
rather than the range. Too much orange can make skin look gray
and sluggish.
Green – blue is a way
to make a lipstick more dramatic - deeper. Try to stay clear of
these if possible, they can make you look like you're standing
under fluorescent lighting.
Silver – gray adds shimmer, softness, depth, Easy to spot
in those light shimmer lipsticks that are so popular now. Adds
light and softness to the lipstick, just make sure that it's not
too much on the blue/gray side. Can make under eye circles stand
out.
Green Huh? Green? Yep, sometimes. The trendy colors have them,
and it's usually paired with a yellow tone as well. You'll look
cool and hip, but you'll also feel as if you need more color on
your face.
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